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Posts Tagged ‘flowering bonsai’

Unusual for a ‘Chojubai’ Japanese flowering quince, this old tree has been in full-on flowering mode since mid-August. Although a Chojubai can typically push a flower almost any month of the year, they are generally at peak flowering from January-April, before the leaves come out. This amount of flowering in the summer is not common.

It is common, though, to see this few leaves on a Chojubai at this time of year. In late summer more than half the leaves will yellow and drop off, and it’s nothing to panic over. The tree is just taking a break. In a couple more months all the leaves will be gone. So that’s what’s going on there. This tree not in the right pot, though, so please don’t write me about that… a smaller, square turquoise pot will be its new home next year.

Old Chojubai quince flowering in the summer! 16″/41 cm high

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As a follow up to the recent post about growing wisteria, this is one in my backyard that is putting on quite a show. It’s a Chinese wisteria, and the photo is from last week. When I came back from the Texas convention over the weekend it was nearly finished blooming. Nuts!

The pot was a prototype of one I made for a few years in the last part of my potting career. It ‘s hard to use, actually. Come to think of it, I made a lot of barely useable pots like that around the periphery of my usual work, exploring the boundaries of containers. Very few trees would work in this one, and this wisteria is not really one of them. But it was the closest I had to the right size and height. The form is a bit too strong for the wisteria, and the color does not really support the tree either. With having said all that I probably should not post this! But the flowers are nice, eh? Ignore the pot… enjoy the flowers!

So… having admitted the problems here, I’ll issue a challenge: What pot would work here? Give it a think, and send me some pot images to my email (please keep them smallish, not over 500 kb) and I’ll post them and we’ll review your ideas!

Although the pot is not quite right for this Chinese wisteria, I tried to make it more playful by turning the square form 45 degrees so that an edge would face front.

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Good question. It seems that while many people would like to have a wisteria bonsai, they give up on them when they fail to bloom consistently. After all, it is a rather dull looking plant when not in flower. I’m sure there are many non-blooming wisteria currently being used as umbrella racks.

'yaaaaaaAAAA!' ---The sound of a pleased wisteria owner

Wisteria bonsai fail to bloom for several primary reasons. The first is that people tend to repot them too frequently. Keeping the wisteria a bit root bound is important—in fact, you should not repot your wisteria more often than once every five years or so.

That’s the first thing. The second is that wisteria need a lake the size of China to be happy. Give your tree a lot of water by immersion of the lower part of the pot in water during summer. DO NOT leave them soaking year round. Without resting the pot in a basin of water the tree won’t flower much the next year. Oddly, the roots don’t rot. (In Japan they have watering drones called apprentices, who can water in their sleep if necessary. If you don’t own a drone, and don’t wish to water 28 times a day yourself, it is perhaps best to use the immerse technique for the summer growing season.)

These first two practices must be combined: If you don’t repot frequently, the soil will get compacted (which we want for good flowering) but that compaction will make it very difficult to water sufficiently from the top when the tree needs a lot of water, in the summer. Hence the pan underneath.

The third thing to promote consistent blooming is to be careful when and how much you’re fertilizing. It is best to fertilize strongly AFTER FLOWERING (April/May) until about July, and then slack off. That way your flower buds will set for next year, and you will restrain foliage growth over the summer.

Lastly, the wisteria will usually produce some tendril growth, which if encouraged will shift the plant into a vegetative growth habit and reduce flowering. Nip these tendrils back to prevent too much growth.

Keep the darn things in the sun. Put up big fans to keep the clouds away. And then watch them bloom.

Maybe I should have titled this one ‘Preventing the Umbrella Rack!’ —but that would have been only slightly better than last week’s overly ambiguous title.

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This unassuming dwarf quince can steal your heart. There are many who have gone to Japan for the spectacular pines, junipers, and maples, only to discover the quiet but memorable Chojubai. Those ‘many’ included a few friends of mine, and myself. This post is a little longer than most because Chojubai is so little known in the West, and, frankly, I think it deserves better. Also, waiting for you at at the end of this long post is a question…

A well-known root-over-rock Japanese flowering quince ‘Chojubai’. 45 cm high

Fairly typical of the multiple-trunk old Chojubai now seen in Japan. 33 cm high

Chaenomeles japonica ‘Chojubai’ is a cultivar of the comparatively coarse Japanese flowering quince. Few plants for bonsai can match its contrasting qualities: Idiosyncratic, craggy branching and twigging, with rough older bark, adorned almost contradictorily with glowing ruby flowers. They flower mostly when out of leaf, in winter, so they lend a feeling of glowing life to the bonsai yard when all else is dull. The details are small, with glossy leaves about 1/2″ long and flowers under 1″ wide. There are several flower variations including white and red, although almost all Chojubai used for bonsai are red-flowered because that variety has the finest twigging.

Medium-sized (‘chuhin’) Chojubai. Fine old tree. 29 cm high

Quirky medium-sized raised-root Chojubai. 30 cm

The history of this tree in Japan is interesting… At first, Chojubai appeared commonly as a small accent plant in the Kokufu show forty years ago, as an unramified twig or two. Only rarely was it seen as a primary tree in the medium size category, and never in the large size. It was a second tier tree. Then something shifted. Around 1990 we began to see large size Chojubai in the Japanese shows. These were trees about 1-1.5 feet tall and twice as wide, multiple-trunked and highly ramified. Occasionally single-trunked trees, which are rare, were seen. In Kokufu book 80, about six years ago, two Chojubai won Kokufu prizes. Two years later in book 82 another won. Chojubai had come of age.

Most Chojubai are enjoyed out of leaf, although the small glossy leaves are perfectly in scale. As Chojubai often flowers nearly year-round there is nothing stopping you from putting them on the display tables any day of the year. 30 cm

You might wonder why I put this in…Well, it is a Chojubai accent plant in the Kokufu show 40 years ago. Interesting, isn’t it, how tastes and techniques have changed? These days, this tree would be unlikely to even get accepted into a local Western show.

The vast majority of Chojubai grown for bonsai are the red-flowered variety; all the other photos in this gallery are of red-flowered trees. This is a white-flowered tree and it won a Kokufu prize. Very hard to ramify the white ones. 33 cm

Chojubai’s ease of ramification is enhanced with training, creating dense forms of intense complexity. Most unique to the Chojubai is the natural eccentricity and unexpected angles and directions in the branching, which are usually encouraged as they represent the special flavor of this variety. If this were a plant trained by music, that music would be jazz.

A red-flowered Kokufu prize winner. Very old. This is a good example of the extremes in technique used to create a very crystalized form. Impressive, and yet in some ways perhaps not showing the best of what Chojubai offers. Hmm, I wonder how long I will be in purgatory for that comment… 35 cm

One of the rarer single-trunked Chojubai. Another Kokufu prize winner. If you have a single-trunked tree, be very sure to cut all suckers that come from the root base. Beautiful old tree! The warty bark is evident only with great age. 38 cm

If you have a Chojubai, you’re lucky. Keep it moist. Plant in deeper containers to hold more water. If you have a young plant, put it in a big training pot with large size soil mix for a few years, so you have some energy to manipulate. Keep in the sun. Use a pesticide when shoots are elongating to control aphids. Wire main branches and shoots from the base for multiple trunks, and cut and grow following that. This is not so much to create branch taper, as there will be little of that, but for the short, zigzagging and erratic branching that is only created by many years of scissor work. Cut back in June to one to three internodes only on refined trees, leave extensions on younger plants to develop trunk. Always immediately remove shoots that come from the base that you are not intending to use as trunks—they will weaken the older areas. There’s more to it, but that will get you started.

Lovely loosely styled multiple-trunk Chojubai. Many years of careful scissor pruning created this natural form. 40 cm

Chojubai just beginning to grow in April at Shinji Suzuki’s nursery.

Another Chojubai at Suzuki’s a month later, in May, just before trimming the extensions.

Chojubai at my place in mid-December, showing tiny flower buds. Any strong tree, with timely trimming, will produce this many buds. It has already had a few flowers open, which are about 1″ across, and will continue blooming for 3-4 months until late March when the leaves start coming out. After that the blooming is more sporadic.

After all those words and photos, there’s no hiding that I’m totally besotted with Chojubai. Ah well. Another personal secret offered to the globe. But I have a wondering curiosity if these images stirred—if any photograph CAN stir—the endearments that Chojubai have raised in myself and others lucky enough to have seen them in person. I imagine many of you have never seen Chojubai before. What do you think? Something you’d like to see more of?

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