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Old White Pine Rewiring

Not something we see every day in the United States… a meter-high seedling white pine. Meaning, a white pine on it’s own roots, not grafted onto black pine. Originally imported from Brussell’s Bonsai, this pine has been gaining strength and balance every year. I think I first styled it in 2008.

One of it’s few defects is a strong root on the right. I’ll have to discuss this with my client, but I may split it and lower it, at the same time raising the entire tree by half an inch next time it’s repotted. That way I hope to expose some of the other nebari roots and make them all at about the same level. Did that make any sense? Splitting the root will make two roots…and easier to lower.

Anyhow, here’s the tree as it looks this fall:

Seedling Japanese white pine, shikoku variety, before rewiring in fall 2011.

After wiring. The shoots still show quite a bit of strength so it will not be repotted for another year.

Now that I have your attention… This post is about a common bacterial disease called Pseudomonas syringae, which frequently affects Japanese maples yet is relatively easy to control. It is often misidentified as Verticillium wilt, as both cause tip dieback. The Pseudomonas bacteria form purply-black stem discolorations, which is the result of a toxin produced by the bacteria which kills cells. Twigs, branches and eventually the entire tree may die. Older and stronger growing trees are less susceptible, as are some varieties. Do not prune maples in the fall (especially in the Northwest) as this disease enters any wound and is encouraged by wet, cool winters. Any cut, at any time of year, should be sealed immediately with a liquid sealant.

Control is three-fold. The first is keeping your Japanese maples strong, healthy, and damage-free. The second and third are related: If you can keep your tree dry during wet and cold periods, that is half the battle. The other is chemical control, which is by copper sulfate or similar bactericide. ZeroTol (an oxygenator, essentially a very strong form of hydrogen peroxide) is excellent. Top spray and bottom drench is recommended.

If you have problems with this disease, try a chemical drench after repotting or after heavy root work. And if you live in an area with wet, cool weather in the fall through spring, seasonal prophylactic spraying is a sharp idea.

Clearing away leaves and especially seeds of maples—like bigleaf or vine maple—is essential after leaf fall as these commonly planted landscape trees are frequent carriers of the disease. Keep leaves and moss away from trunk bases, too.

The purply-black tissue damage of the Pseudomonas bacteria shown on this branch is typical of the disease.

Discolored stem damage above and below a pruning cut (seen as a white stub) where the bacteria likely entered the Japanese maple.

This was a demo tree at a convention a few years ago. My client has been keeping it healthy and it’s been budding back quite well, and we decided it was ready for a rewiring.

I’ve been surprised how well Ponderosa develops here in the Northwest. When I first moved here in 2006 I assumed there would not be enough sun to really get the budding and shorter needle growth on these pines, but having worked on a few now over a few years I have another opinion. This one will need only another three years or so of growth before it feels settled into this new styling.

Ponderosa pine before wiring

And after styling. Tree is tilted to the left to prevent vertical/horizontal sections of the trunk, and to create better drama in the flow to the right. Apex needs several years of growth to fill in.

Cicada Damage On Bonsai

This may well qualify as the most useless post I offer this year… because it will have relevance only every decade or so. Seventeen years, in some cases… I’m talking about cicadas. Recently I was in the Midwest and saw this cicada damage on a client’s beech. The cicada will lay eggs in the branches of a tree, leaving a strange stitching pattern. The larvae end up in the soil, where they will eat the tree roots. You may kill them with an insecticide drench. Mark your calendars for the cicada boom year in your area, and keep an eye out for this damage:

The healing callus makes stitch pattern. This is a beech.

Another branch with cicada damage from the summer, photographed in the fall

Leafless Red Maple

This is the same tree as was featured in the previous post. I took that picture in leaf, then took a trip, and when I came back it was completely bare. Here’s a winter silhouette, and, since several commented on it, a close-up of the nebari.

Red Maple, Acer rubrum, October 2011. The upward and outward flowing branches create its natural feeling.

Nebari

Red Maple in Fall Color

This post is dedicated to Portland’s own dear lady of deciduous, Anne Spencer, who passed recently. Anne grew this Red maple, Acer rubrum, from a three year old seedling twenty years ago. It is one of the joys of my backyard. This maple is a fine example of what slow dedicated work can bring, which is really the only way to an excellent deciduous product.

This year the Red maple is orange... the color of the photo does not get the glow of the orange quite right. 18" high.

Extreme Tidiness!

You think bonsai artists take things a bit far sometimes? This artist’s compulsive clean-up acts made me laugh out loud… His name is Ursus Wehrli.

Before...

...and after! Never seen men, women and children organized quite like this...

And here's a new take on foliage cleanup...

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