Although it might be different where you are, Japanese maple spring work is now here in Portland, Oregon. It is often some of the first work to be done on deciduous trees.
I should qualify that: now is about right for beginning work on REFINED maples. Younger plants or those where trunks and primary and secondary branches are being grown are totally different. We push those and don’t trim early, maybe cutting in early fall or early spring only. Cutting back hard in the early years will bring more budding, and help develop branch taper.
But with older trees that already have some ramification, pinching is the best way to develop balance, prevent scars, and create elegance. If we grow the old tree strongly, fertilizing heavily in the spring and then whacking back, all we get is a tree much too strong on top with weak lower and inside branches. By taking out the center shoot, in between the first two leaves, usually using a tweezer, we can prevent those from getting too strong.
Japanese maple shoots grow out at different rates all over the tree. Some shoots will be first, and those are your strongest. When we see that little shoot developing and elongating, take it off immediately. If we don’t, that shoot will gain strength and get thick, and be too strong next year too, and it will also have a really long internode. If we pluck it early, it is possible to get short internodes. Later, the weaker shoots will grow out, a few days or a few weeks later. You may want to pluck those too, or you may choose to leave them a while to strengthen the twig a bit.
If you have a very old tree with some truly weak branches, even some that are dying back a bit, you might want to lightly fertilize in the spring. But if we fertilize too much…we get a young tree again! A small amount of inner branch loss is accepted on a very old tree. Trimming the leaves—every other one in the strong areas and none in the weaker areas—is the next step, but that is next month’s work…
Best,
Michael
Michael, I have a young (15 years?) maple which I am training for broom style. I started pinching new shoots leaving two sets of leaves and noticed that after I pinch the leaves get bigger. I am guessing I should have let it grown out more and then trim back in the summer, is that right? Also, is it better to trim back twice – once in the early spring while branches are bare and easy to see and once in the summer to shape the foliage?
Thanks,
Rusty
hi Rusty,
To begin with, try to leave only one set of leaves, not two sets, if you’ve reached the perimeter of the tree’s design. But we can certainly let it grow longer if we need the length.
The remaining leaves will get larger, that is normal. When we pinch the centers, those remaining leaves are still growing and small.
If you trim back in the summer on a refined tree, you will have a much longer internode, and much thicker twig. But you are right—trimming back twice as you describe is a good basic plan.
Best,
Michael
Michael,
I just figured out something and would like to hear your thoughts on it – I noticed that on rainy days I still have to water my maple because not much rain actually gets to the pot, most of the water rolling off the foliage. Am I over reacting and overwatering my tree or have you noticed the same thing?
Rusty
Rusty,
Yes, you’ve pinpointed a thing you will notice more and more of as your trees become more developed and have thicker crowns. Pines can have the same issue. But the structure and layering of Japanese maple leaves is such that this issue is pronounced in them: Rain rarely reaches the pot!
Best,
Michael
Rusty,
My Japanese maple which is now 8 years old is having problems. The top layers of leaves has dried out. The rest of the tree seems fine. What do you think the problem is? It is a beautiful tree and I want to do whatever I need to save it.
Thanks much,
Robin
Robin,
it would help if you had a photo you could send. but has the tree dried out possibly on a hot day?
best,
Michael