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Four trunks…

Ok, I’ve waited and can wait no longer…

Been delightfully shocked that no one, in 4 months, has commented that there are scandalously FOUR trunks in the spruce clump I posted on Feb. 25th. Have we really evolved past that? 

To be frank, I had no particular intention of falling out of line with that guideline of an odd number of trunks. It just seemed that the balance would be destroyed if one of the trunks was removed. Maybe I’ll remove one in the future, but for now I am relishing my moment of rebellion…

Best,
Michael

Studio progress…

Don’t ever design your own building in an effort to make things ‘interesting.’ For one, it makes engineers nervous, and so they seriously over-engineer to compensate for sweating. For another, your pocketbook will feel light as a feather. And finally, they are a bugger to build. In any event, in early fall, the teaching at Crataegus Bonsai will be transferred to this quirky five-sided studio currently under construction:

studioframed

Controlling Scale

They’re here again…scale are emerging from their eggs underneath their shields, and beginning to crawl. 

This is the time to control them. If we sprayed during the winter we wasted insecticide on protected eggs. In June they mature and begin moving around the plant, and can be controlled with oils. All-season oil or Neem oil work. Early summer through the warm months they are active.

It’s very important to identify when to control what. If we spray with the right insecticide or fungicide in the wrong season, we waste time and money and maybe give a beneficial organism a hard time.

Michael

Watering tip

Before the real summer heat hits, consider how you are watering your trees. 

Have you ever seen your trees grow through spring just fine, only to get fried leaves at the first onset of early summer? Ever wonder why that happens? 

Those trees just don’t have enough roots. Those are the trees that got overwatered, or simply never dried out, in the cool spring months. Their roots were never encouraged to hunt out water, so these trees could survive in the moist cool weather on about three roots. First hot day: bam, they get hit hard as they have a spindly root system, not enough to support their overlarge, over long leaves and shoots on dry hot days. (A bonsai version of a company that has overspent just before a recession…) 

Especially on cool overcast days, if you can monitor them, water each tree only when it is really drying out and not by rote. Watering by a schedule is the surest way to have some really weak trees that show themselves in the hot summer!

Best,

Michael

In an earlier post, we talked about pinching back Japanese maple. And now we get to the part two of that…there are three parts to this seasonal maple work, by the way, and we’ll be getting to that third part sometime in late-summer/early fall. (Actually we are onto a truism of bonsai here: if we begin monkeying around with bonsai, cutting, defoliating, etc, we are setting ourselves up for more work later in the season!)

So. Defoliating is done for a long list of reasons. But the main ones are to keep the twigs thin and delicate; to balance the tree’s energy; to get more ramification; to strengthen inner shoots by increasing light to them and removing powerful growth hormones in the tips; and for those of you who like fall display, getting smaller and better colored second-growth leaves. 

In short, only defoliate strong trees. If you’ve repotted the tree, you might skip this year. If the tree is very old, you might skip if it looks tired out. If it’s sick, skip this year’s defoliation. If you’re too busy this summer, skip this year as you’ll make a mess of the tree because you have more work coming…

Think of defoliating as a way to rebalance a tree. Japanese maple is highly apically dominate. Your lower branches may be weak. The apex will likely have strong, thick shoots. If the lower branches are too weak, just defoliate the top. If it’s well-balanced, you can defoliate most of the tree. Leave the small leaves in the interior. It’s not a great idea to take every leaf off any tree since we lose that transpirational pull and the tree just stalls for a bit. Also, be sure you protect the tree from intense sun for about two weeks, as the interior leaves have been very well shaded and can burn when exposed.

Cut the petiole, don’t pluck a Japanese maple. You can pluck Trident. When to defoliate depends on your location: generally, you wait some weeks after the leaves have hardened, perhaps June for younger trees. The exact timing does not seem critical (this is not a Black pine…) Just don’t defoliate too late, such as late summer/early fall. Late July is still ok for old Japanese maples, and may be best for a very small leaf and thin twig. 

For just a light rebalancing, you can cut off one of a pair of leaves in the stronger areas. Leave two pairs of leaves in the weaker areas. This is partial defoliation. 

Ok, we’ll be readdressing our maples in the summer, since strong defoliation will bring out a mass of eager shoots—and if we don’t come back to the tree soon, it will be a real mess. Bulges and scars and the whole deciduous disaster. 

Best,

Michael

If you’re seeing spotty dying of branches in May and June, here and there, but particularly on one side of the tree…think frost damage. 

Weak trees, particularly those with weak or few roots, will be more susceptible to twig death. The tissue was damaged months ago but we only see the change in color and wilting now. The buds of pines will get soft. The healthy ones elongate while frost damaged ones stay there as if paused, feel soft to the touch, and the needles turn gray-green. One shoot may be affected and the surrounding shoots show no problem. Whole branches on deciduous trees wither and never shoot out. 

The tissue damage is evident on evergreens by the loss of chlorophyll. Frosted hard one or several nights in a row, and then the sun comes up and burns one side of the leaf or needle. It is almost heliotropic. The morning sun side of the tree will show damage months later—-now, as the weather heats up—when there was little evidence at the time. 

Usually it is only weak trees that will be affected by this. Next year, try to give such plants more overhead frost protection. 

Best,

Michael

(This is the first chapter of my book about apprenticing in Japan.)

Two Apprentices

 

Tachi intrigued me from the start. Why was he studying bonsai? He was an eighteen-year-old Tokyo kid not yet weaned from bubblegum TV shows and doll-like Japanese pop stars, utterly clueless about trees. Tachi told me that on a high school field trip a friend had pointed at a mountain and said how beautiful it was, and he had shrugged and replied, “Okay.” Tachi was without any particular touchstone moment when nature itself became extraordinary or arresting. He simply loved bonsai, and had to learn to appreciate nature.

Tachi was lucky. While still young he had discovered that the best, most honest endeavors are those we get little encouragement to do. Ninety-eight percent of his former high school classmates had gone to college, to which, according to his accounting, they had herded each other as a result of mass indecision. He told me of the rising panic of his classmates finishing their third years in Tokyo universities, beginning in that last year to apply for jobs in companies where the majority of them would become salaryman, office workers, pushing paper in any job they could find. That would be their careers.

Tachi puzzled, “I worry about them. I wonder not only if they can find a job, but can actually work. Here I am learning a work ethic, I know what quality is, am being trained in business, and I will be my own boss. One of my friends said he was ‘just not looking forward to sitting behind a desk’—and I thought, ‘That seems a bit late in coming!’ I worry about my friends.” Bonsai was an admirable career choice for one who was not quite ready to forgo being a kid, choosing a path that was not pleasantly weedy but rather strewn with big, seriously intimidating boulders.

Tachi was not always so philosophical. For most of their time in college, his friends were having a blast: girlfriends, parties, freedom, and, in the style of Japanese colleges, very little studying. They had studied very hard to get in, and now in, they relaxed. Whatever the quality of the university they were in, the quality of their future jobs would follow suit. The hard work was over. In the years we apprenticed together, Tachi would often talk wistfully about all the fun he was missing.

Although both of us would many times think, and for different reasons, what Faustian deals we had made matriculating as bonsai apprentices, it slowly dawned on Tachi that eventually he was going to be the clear winner. He was beginning to suspect that a life with bonsai provides finer and finer views with time, and from calculating his friends’ future trajectory, he knew that the life of a salaryman never quite gets off the airstrip. And that was when he began to worry about his friends.

Still, he had five years to navigate those big boulders. Training to be a bonsai professional is, if not Faustian, at least a form of study utterly contrary to what one might expect from a contemplative art. Cell phones ring, often two at a time, people are running, yelling, and generally getting quite winded in the process of creating, maintaining, and selling bonsai. Particularly for the low ranking, apprentice life is only rarely peaceful, wholly devoid of free will, and mostly constructed of disorientation, emotional stress, and heavy lifting.

Irony seemed the substance of our lives. We studied beauty under a haze of stress. After a few unforgettable years, our hands became compassionate when we touched bonsai, because it was familiar to us. We became bonsai monks.

But Tachi and I did not know about that yet. We knew only that bonsai was the focus of our lives, and that this had brought us to study in the small town of Obuse in rural Nagano Prefecture under a young and talented master, Mr. Shinji Suzuki. Tachi was eighteen, and I was thirty-six, but he was my superior because he had arrived seven months before I did.

Tachi had come a short way—two hours by train—and I had come a long way—eleven hours by plane. I had vacated a decade-long vocation as a potter making containers for bonsai in the United States, which, while pleasant, had felt increasingly dissatisfying. Too frequently in those last few years I walked home after making pots in the studio and realized that I had been thinking about trees all day. I packed up this incomplete career, squirreled it away in a five-by-ten storage unit, and left for Japan.

Although our personal histories had little in common, Tachi and I were both apprentices, which meant we had more similarities than differences. We had minimal wardrobes and lived in small apartments with little to distract us. We also had arrived with complete sets of fingerprints—which over the next few months would fade away in the erosion of work along with other parts of our identities. And that was where we began.

 

For more about Post-Dated: The Schooling of an Irreverent Bonsai Monk, go to:  http://crataegus.com/about/

This chapter © copyright Michael Hagedorn 2008; please ask permission for its use! Thanks.

For a lengthy interview, take a look at this link to BonsaiBark, and note that there are two parts to this with a link to the second part at the bottom of the first page. Enjoy! These were great questions, really.

http://bonsaibark.com/2009/02/24/michael-hagedorn-interview-part-1/

Best,

Michael Hagedorn

Bonsai Focus publisher René Rooswinkel and editor Farrand Bloch were in California last week to do a photo shoot with Boon Manakitivipart and Michael Hagedorn. Check out Jonas Dupuich’s blog for photos and a brief overview of the hilarious event:

http://bonsaitonight.com/

 

I still think Jonas has, hands down, the best name in bonsai blogging…I was told that this name was brainstormed with the help of some beer years and years ago, and that very night Jonas went to his computer and locked in the domain name: bonsaitonight. Now he’s finally using it. He’s got some great recent photos of Japan on it, including a visit to my teacher, Mr. Shinji Suzuki. 

But keep an eye out for articles on Boon and I in Bonsai Focus… http://www.bonsaifocus.com/

Best,

Michael

Although it might be different where you are, Japanese maple spring work is now here in Portland, Oregon. It is often some of the first work to be done on deciduous trees. 

I should qualify that: now is about right for beginning work on REFINED maples. Younger plants or those where trunks and primary and secondary branches are being grown are totally different. We push those and don’t trim early, maybe cutting in early fall or early spring only. Cutting back hard in the early years will bring more budding, and help develop branch taper.

But with older trees that already have some ramification, pinching is the best way to develop balance, prevent scars, and create elegance. If we grow the old tree strongly, fertilizing heavily in the spring and then whacking back, all we get is a tree much too strong on top with weak lower and inside branches. By taking out the center shoot, in between the first two leaves, usually using a tweezer, we can prevent those from getting too strong. 

Japanese maple shoots grow out at different rates all over the tree. Some shoots will be first, and those are your strongest. When we see that little shoot developing and elongating, take it off immediately. If we don’t, that shoot will gain strength and get thick, and be too strong next year too, and it will also have a really long internode. If we pluck it early, it is possible to get short internodes. Later, the weaker shoots will grow out, a few days or a few weeks later. You may want to pluck those too, or you may choose to leave them a while to strengthen the twig a bit. 

If you have a very old tree with some truly weak branches, even some that are dying back a bit, you might want to lightly fertilize in the spring. But if we fertilize too much…we get a young tree again! A small amount of inner branch loss is accepted on a very old tree. Trimming the leaves—every other one in the strong areas and none in the weaker areas—is the next step, but that is next month’s work…

Best,

Michael

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